Lime-washing is an old-fashioned wood floor treatment that has withstood
the test of time and is still popular with homeowners today when they want to
give their floor a facelift. However, because the lime-washing technique is a
temporary solution it should not be used in place of restoration if the floor
has been untreated for more than a decade. In such cases a complete
rejuvenation should be undertaken, which includes the repair/replace damaged
boards, full sanding and refinishing. In addition not every type of real Wood Floor Sanding is suitable for this type of treatment so if you are in doubt play safe
and get an expert opinion before carrying out any lime-washing.
The lime-wash solution works by coating and protecting the floor, but
years of cleaning gradually removes the chalk-like lime and natural wax on the
floor making the boards extra slippery and in some cases quite hazardous.
An alternative is to use what is known as a pickling stain, which
contains no lime and offers the blanched, almost see-through veneer that is
very popular with on-trend homeowners. Whether you choose to use lime or
pickling stain you should begin with a freshly sanded floor, as old varnish and
other sealants will stop the colour from being absorbed into the wood resulting
in a patchy and amateurish finish.
The process
You can mix the lime-wash yourself or have it mixed for you by an
in-store painting mix machine. Do not apply to an unprepared floor and always
vacuum thoroughly after sanding. Apply a little at a time using a high-quality
brush (so the bristles won’t drop out) or a lint-free cloth. Dip the end of the
brush or cloth into the mix and apply directly on to the planks. Always move
along with the grain never against and do not ever apply across the planking.
DIY’ers often prefer to lime-wash planks by row. To avoid creating a
line between strokes try to refine the method of lifting the brush just a
little as you come to the end of the stroke so that it blends in with the next
application.
Always wipe the wash with a separate cloth before it dries in, as before
moving only in the direction of the natural wood grain. In this way you can
cover the entire floor applying lime-wash and removing it until the whole floor
has been treated. Depending upon the size of the floor and whether you are
working alone or have some help, this may be a painstaking process but not one
that should be rushed as any flaws not attended to at this time will be greatly
magnified when the end result is viewed. Don’t be tempted to cut corners. If
you feel this may be too much for you to tackle then you can obtain a free
quotation from a Floor Sanding specialist company.
Moving forward
When you have completed the floor it will require several hours to dry
completely. If possible try to give it at least four hours or better still let
it dry overnight. A good rule of thumb is that any water-based solution will
need a minimum of three hours to dry whereas an oil-based mix should be left
overnight. Do not carry on if the mix is completely dry.
To seal the floor you should use a urethane sealant, which you can get
from a DIY shop. Follow the manufacturer guidelines and apply straight from the
tin using a clean brush, paint pad or floor mop. Once again use long strokes
moving along the grain; short strokes will result in air bubbles marring the
finish. Drying time is as above.
You can apply several coats of sealant if you wish but always allow the
previous coat to completely dry out first.
A little TLC to finish
Keep your lime-wash floor looking gorgeous for a long time to come with
regular vacuuming and an occasional clean with a lightly moistened mop.
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