Hardwood floor screening is carried out when a floor has dulled
naturally through time but the overall condition of the wood is still good and
does not require a full sanding and refinishing. Hardwood screening is a
process whereby only the very top layer of the veneer is removed, leaving the
stain or varnish untouched.
Screening is a delicate procedure that should only be carried out by
professionals or the DIY-er who has previous screening experience. Heavy-handed
screening will result in the whole floor having to be sanded and refinished
from scratch – a costly error!
Screen your wood floor sanding using a buffing machine with screening appendage
which you will be able to hire. Don’t forget to purchase suitable screening
discs, which are available in 60, 80,100 and 120-grades.
Begin by affixing the roughest grade of disc (like sandpaper, the
screening disc rule is that the lower the grade the coarser the disc) to the
buffer then walk the machine across the floor along the length of the planks.
As you move the buffer will screen off the first tier of finishing, although
you must be careful to avoid over-buffing in any one place or allowing the
machine to remain stationary whilst it is running. When the floor has been completely
screen then lightly vacuum the dust particles away.
Begin again using a finer grade of disc, vacuum and repeat a maximum of
four times each time using a finer grade of disc.
When the floor has been screened for the final time it should be markedly
smoother and richer in colour than before, and completely free of tired old
finishing.
Now the floor should be thoroughly cleaned with damp dusters to get rid
of any particles of dust which might remain. Tie your cloth onto the head of a
soft brush to get right into the corners, nooks and crannies.
Oil or water?
To screen properly you really need to know whether the existing
finishing is oil or water-based. Oil-based finishing is best cleaned by a cloth
dampened with paint thinner and water-based finishing should be cleaned with a
water dampened rag.
Polyurethane finish
Using a good quality lambs wool mitt apply the new finishing to the
floor sanding, starting at the corner of the room furthest away from the door from
which you will exit. Do not completely submerge the mitt into the finish but
allow it to soak up only as much as it can hold before bringing the mitt
towards you in a pulling motion. Always move along with the wood grain, never
against it. Polyurethane finishing should always be introduced to the floor in
smooth and even strokes. Avoid puddling and seepage. Do not be afraid to wipe
away residual finishing as you go and keep a dry cloth by you as you work.
Allow a full 8 hours (or preferably overnight) for the finishing to
completely dry before returning to the room.
A little sanding goes a long way
When the finish has dried the floor is ready to be sanded by hand using
a very fine grain of sandpaper. Use a light hand here as all you are looking to
do is to bring a slightly matt effect to the sheen which is necessary if the
next layer of finishing is to adhere to it properly. After the sanding clean up
with dampened cloths as before.
Repeat the whole process again exactly as above. When you apply the
third and final polyurethane coating do not sand to allow the natural shine of
your newly screened hardwood floor to come through.
For best results leave the room unoccupied for 48 hours before returning
furniture to the room.
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