When your wood, parquet or mosaic flooring is in need of repair,
regardless of the size of the problem it is better to attend to the matter as
soon as you notice the damage. With hardwood flooring it really is a case of a
stitch in time saves nine. Many homeowners have ignored damp patches, squeaks
and creaks or splintered planking only to discover months or even a year down
the line that the once small eyesore has now become a major problem that spoils
the aesthetics of the entire room.
Damp patches in particular have a propensity to spread and, along with
dry rot, should always be dealt with as soon as they are discovered. In
addition to the stale, moldy smell that comes with wet rot, there will also be
noticeable spores that spread out in weird and wonderful shapes, some of which
have an attractive frilly edging. However make no mistake - these pests are
anything but attractive and will ruin the whole floor if they are not checked.
Unless you are an experienced craftsman it is not recommended to
undertake a course of dry or wet rot treatment yourself. If you suspect you
have any kind of rot in your floor boards, contact a professional wood floor
specialist company who will offer a no-cost evaluation and solution.
Rot is not the only problem to afflict a wood floor. In fact the most
common flaws come in the shape of split or missing boards, wood which has discolored over the years or is badly stained. Fortunately in these cases, the
remedy can be within your own hands
if you are reasonably competent at DIY and are not afraid of a bit of hard
work.
Look after your floor and your floor will look after you in terms of
aesthetics, comfort and elegance. A
beautifully maintained wood floor is always a talking point for visitors and
guests to the home as well as the envy of neighbors and friends. It is not
uncommon for a real wood floor to last 100 years or more, making it the most
cost-effective flooring option on the market.
Repair
Much of flooring repair comes in the shape of refitting planks and
replacing where necessary, removing dangerously upright splinters, screws and
nails, gap filling and securing loose boards.
Once these jobs have been completed the next stage is the sanding. In
order to bring the floor back to its pristine original condition, the existing
veneer (which may well be patchy, discolored and faded if your floor has not
been refinished for a long time) should be re-sanded back to its basic
condition.
Sanding
Sanding involves totally removing not only the veneer but also a
minuscule top layer of the wood itself to leave smooth and blemish-free boards.
Do not attempt to apply a resurfacing product on top of a floor which has not
been sanded. This never looks good and often results in an expensive and time
consuming effort to put right. Floor Sanding is integral to the finished
product and should therefore never be omitted.
The best way to re-sand is to hire an industrial sander from a good DIY
shop. Before you take the sander away make sure the machine has been regularly
serviced and maintained and adheres to current Health and Safety
regulations. These sanders are large
vacuum-sized machines which you can guide along the boards sanding as you go.
If you have never used a sander before treat it with a gentle hand until you become familiar with the machine. For best results allow the sander to glide across the floor and avoid digging into the wood. It is better to lightly sand two or three times rather than one heavy sanding that leaves ruts on the floor.
Finishing
When sanding is complete then you can apply your finishing whether it be
lacquer, wood stain, varnish or oil. If you like the ‘bare board’ look of the
floor after sanding then you can simply buff and polish although if you choose
this option remember that the floor has no protection and is unlikely to last
as long.
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