Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Whitewashing Wood Floors

The art of whitewashing has been enjoying a well-deserved resurgence over the past 10 years by homeowners who are looking for that traditional country cottage ambience and look. Even smaller rooms look good with whitewashed floors, as it helps make rooms appear larger and with clean, fresh, uncluttered lines. There is no doubt about it: a whitewashed floor has an old world charm that is fresh and light, and brings an historical interior to the most modern type of home.

Old style whitewash was produced by blending chalk and calcium hydroxide (lime) together to make a paint-like solution, which was then applied to any type of solid wood flooring sanding. The neutral shade of whitewash is a brilliant backdrop to any kind of furnishing and décor and looks especially great in family dens and bedrooms. If your kitchen has a real wood floor then whitewashing will give it a real country feel that contrasts very well with dark oak furniture.

Whitewash, by its nature, is not an in-your-face pizzazz of glamour; rather it offers a timeless elegance and understated taste. Durable and tough, whitewashing a floor brings additional protection and it hardens much like a finishing product. Use whitewash to bring out the beauty of wood grain because, unlike paint, whitewash does not cover the natural texture of wood. Whitewash is one of the very few solid floor options that can look both elegant and informal, depending upon the surrounding décor.

Whitewash your own floor

The first step in whitewashing a floor is to sand off all remnants of the old finishing veneer. The best way to do this is to hire an industrial sanding machine, which you walk along the sanding floorboards lengthwise from one end of the room to the other. The machine, fitted with a belt of sandpaper, will sand the floor as you move along, but be careful not to stop walking whilst the sander is operating because the machine will continue to sand on the spot and could cause ruts in the wood.

Once the floor has been sanded two or three times then you can, after vacuuming thoroughly, apply the whitewash mix. If you are looking for the distressed look apply the whitewash with a rag in small areas but using long strokes and following along the wood grain and for a smooth finish apply with a good quality roller. It may be that several coats are required to give the look you want, so bear in mind that each coat must be allowed to dry fully before reapplying.

Whitewash naturally sets as it hardens and acts as a strong protection for all types of wood flooring, but if an additional shield is required, perhaps if the room has heavy traffic, you can apply a sealing solution once you have applied the final coat of whitewash. Whitewash responds particularly well to a finishing of polyurethane-based product or finishing oil solution.


Don’t be too worried applying the whitewash though. If your mixture is too thick and covers too much of the wood grain you can simply sand it off and reapply whitewash with a thinner ratio mix. If you are unsure about mixing your own whitewash solution then you can purchase ready-made whitewash at any good DIY outlet.
It is possible to whitewash all types of hard and softwood flooring as well as engineered wood to good effect.

If you are unsure of whitewashing the floor yourself you can call in a professional wood sanding company who will be able to give you an accurate estimate of the cost.

Monday, September 9, 2013

Floor Sanding in Your London Home

If the wood flooring of your London home suffers from being tired, dull and worn you can transform and rejuvenate any type of hard or softwood flooring back to its original state without forking out a fortune. London houses, notably Central London terraces, were often built with solid wood flooring which would cost a fortune to install now. So those lucky homeowners are in the best position to restore these floors without spending even a fraction of a full installation cost today.

Original floor sanding in London property built at the beginning of the 20th Century right through to the 1960s will probably discover the wood planking is thicker and wider than modern floors, making them more robust and versatile than their modern counterparts.

No matter what the current condition of the floor, it can be visibly improved by some TLC in the form of repairing, sanding and refinishing. Of course the more neglected the floor has become the more care it will require. But in the main it is fair to say that repairing and replacing planks where necessary, along with sanding and refinishing, goes a long way to returning any solid wood flooring to its former beauty.

To DIY or not to DIY?

Many homeowners will feel the restoration of an aging wood floor in their London home to be a project they would like to get their teeth into. If you have a more-than-average skill of general DIY and is in good health then there is no reason why you shouldn’t do it yourself. However, if spending periods of time on your knees and bending is a no-no for you then you can obtain a free quotation from a specialist London floor sanding company and hand the job over to the experts instead.

The advance of technology has meant more refined and less messy floor sanding tools have evolved over the past decades, although there will always be a degree of dust in the air when using a sanding machine. Bearing this in mind, it would be wise for any asthma sufferers to be away from the home whilst you are working.

It is highly likely that you will require to hire an industrial sanding machine, propelled either by a belt or a drum, as well as using an orbital to get into small corners, fire surrounds etc. Don’t be daunted if you have never used a large sanding machine before, but make sure you read and understand all operating instructions before attempting to sand the floor. You will need to use a large sander that you will walk along the length of the planks, sanding as you go, unless you are sanding a tiny box-room or landing, when you will be unable to use a hand held sander to complete the floor sanding process.

Depending on the current state of the floor it will require two or possible three sandings, and each time you pass across the floor you will affix a finer grain of paper to the machine.

You will know when you have completed the final sanding as the floor will feel smooth with no splinters, cracks or clinging bits of old veneer. The colour of the floor will also be several shades lighter with a scrubbed look. Don’t worry if this is not the colour you want your floor to be, a few coats of finishing will darken it down to a more natural shade as will natural daylight, traffic and normal wear and tear.

The choice of finishing will affect the colour of the wood and you can change the colour completely by using a coloured wood stain. On the other hand if you like the current colour you can use a clear varnish finishing.

Saturday, August 31, 2013

Recoat and Screen Solid Wood Flooring

Recoating or screening describes the process by which the veneer of a wood floor is scraped very lightly to remove the topmost layer only before being recoated with fresh finishing. The term screening comes from the mesh screen, which is used to delicately remove worn finishing. By using the screening process you can ensure that only the very top coat is removed, which offers a renewed look to your floor without need for a full sanding and refinishing job.

Popular in commercial premises in rooms with heavy football such as gyms and pool surrounds, a recoat and screen can also work wonders in domestic settings with more and more homeowners benefitting from a topcoat finishing. Whilst screening does away with surface scratches and spots it will not go deep enough to repair gouges or heavy stains. Recoat your floor only if you are looking to remove surface wear and tear. Otherwise, re-sanding will be necessary to bring the floor back to pristine condition.

A facelift for your floor

All floors will eventually require a sanding and re-polishing but until that time screening is a viable and cost-effective method of Botox for your floor! A well-carried out screening will add years of life to the floor staving off the day when a full refurbishment becomes necessary.

The handy DIY-er can undertake recoating by hand, or if you don’t feel confident enough you can turn your floor over to a professional floor sanding specialists company with the additional advantage of all work professionally carried out and fully guaranteed.

However if you feel that screening your solid wood floor is a task you would like to undertake then here is the relatively simple but painstaking process to a lively and fresh looking wood floor.

First things first…

Before you start make sure the room has good ventilation. Vacuum carefully first and use a gentle cleaner to remove any build-up of dirt and grit. Begin screening with a 120-grade of paper (black) and always sand along the wood grain with a light hand. Move slowly and carefully along the length of the planks and avoid over-screening any one area. When finished screening vacuum and wipe the wood with a damp cloth to remove all debris.

Choose your finishing product carefully, and take into consideration the finishing which has already been applied. For example, topcoats which are oil-based are absorbed into the wood so if the floor is unstained it is likely to have been finished with an oil-based product. Another clue to oil-based finishing is the yellow/gold effect this type of finishing has on solid wood flooring sanding. If the floor has small blemish marks a satin finish will be more forgiving.

After screening has been completed then apply the new coat of finishing. The best method of application is via a small lambs wool pad which should be soaked in solvent being used (either mineral spirits or water as appropriate). Apply the finishing in smooth strokes moving along with the natural grain of the wood. Nooks and crannies are best reached by a good quality brush which will not drop bristles onto the floor.

Allow the veneer to dry out completely (24 hours at least) before walking on it. Leave the room empty of furniture for as long as you can (3 days is perfect if you can do it). After this time the floor will be fully hardened and can be polished by a buffing machine or you can use a hand held duster if the room is not too large. However use a buffer if you want a highly polished and ultra-smooth look.

Recoating and screening successfully can add years of life to an existing veneer.

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Hand Scraped Solid Wood Flooring

Hardwood flooring which bears the marks of character and rustic living has never been more popular than it is currently in 21st Century homes. Aged wood has a particular charm that speaks of country living and of gentler days gone by. It evokes comforting images of hearth and home and family life, and is the reason many people opt for hand scraped wood flooring for their homes.

Imagine traditional wood flooring bearing the marks of character and style but which benefits from the advanced finishing techniques on the market today. Hand scraped flooring is an asset to any solid wood type and looks great in all types of homes. Both lovers of minimalist and traditional design enjoy the authenticity and bespoke qualities of a hand scraped floor.

The difference between hand scraped and distressed wood floors

The basic difference between the two is that hand scraped wood is exactly as it says: wood floor sanding company which has been marked and scored by hand in order to achieve a traditional and time worn appearance. A ‘distressed’ floor is one that has been subjected to similar treatment but by a machine. As one might expect the distressed floor option is by far the most cost effective and less labour intensive than the traditional hand scraping method.

Since both of these finishes will indeed last for many, many years with only basic maintenance and cleaning required, it may be worthwhile to opt for the hand scraped method or, if you are an artisan yourself, you might try doing it yourself. It has to be said though that by choosing a wood floor specialist to do this work their innate artistry and skill can transform naturally occurring holes, whorls and other distinctive markings into superb features of the wood.

Hand scraping can be done as a light, medium or heavy finishing and this work can be carried out on a floor that has already been laid. That means it is never too late to choose a hand scraped look for your floor, and you can change your mind whenever you want to.

If the floor is new then homeowners do have the choice of selecting a hand scraped veneer prior to the floor being laid. This type of pre-finished hand scraped work, generally known as ‘hand rubbed’ and is amongst the most costly options for solid wood flooring. However the up side has to be that you will never have to replace your floor again in your lifetime. In addition wood treated in this way will be unaffected by changes in temperature and will not be subjected to shrinkage or expansion.

Why choose hand scraped?

As well as being unique, homeowners know that their floor can never be copied and will remain a tailored and beautiful finish that adds beauty and value to the home. Whether your floor is brand new or been in situ for years you can choose to have an authentically finished hand scraped floor, and quite possibly for less than you think.

Hand scraped solid wood flooring is probably the oldest style of wood flooring sanding services there is and is currently enjoying a well-deserved resurgence in popularity. Modelled on a style that was first developed in the days before machinery, hand scraped wood has an intrinsic beauty and style which cannot be reproduced using any other method. Oddly enough the hand scraping method was used initially to try to smooth the wood to a uniform level of smoothness and to iron out irregularities. Today the same hand scraped method is used to produce the opposite effect.

Most hand scraped floors have a ‘recycled’ look about them when finished, and as such fit nicely into today’s homes and look great in both modern and traditional settings.

Saturday, August 3, 2013

Recoating Solid Wood Floors in London Homes

London homeowners who understand the importance of regular maintenance and the recoating of solid wood floors are rewarded with many years of service from their flooring. With many London terraces uncovering a wealth of original wood flooring sanding, it is no wonder the astute homeowner with an eye on the prize invests both time and money into restoring these assets to their pristine best.

However there will come a time when even the best maintained floor will require a spruce up. Whether that takes the form of a complete refurbishment or a simple recoating process depends entirely on the current state of the floor and the type of usage the room receives.

London homeowners who have previously refinished a floor may well find that a recoating is all that is needed to return the floor to its naturally beautiful state.

The recoating process

Recoating a floor involves minimal removal of existing veneer and the application of a fresh coat of finishing. This process is possible if a floor has been varnished or has a polyurethane-based finishing. Waxed flooring cannot as a rule be recoated and homeowners with floors with a wax finish will have to re-sand and apply and entirely new finishing.

The first stage in the recoating process is therefore to know what type of finishing is on the floor. Plain varnished floors can be screened, which means lightly scraping off the outer skin of the finish. This process removes only a fraction of the finishing compared to that which would be removed by sanding. Once the screening has been completed best results are obtained by applying the same type of finishing as was originally used.

Alternative choices

If you are unsure as to what type of finishing you have or even if your floor is suitable for this type of treatment, you can obtain a no-obligation floor survey and quotation from a London floor sanding specialist company. They can help you get the best from your floor - and your money!

Although less intensive that a full re-sanding, recoating is not a secondary job and should be given just as much importance. A timely recoating can save money on refurbishment in years to come with less stress and upheaval.

Recoating solid wood removes ingrained dirt, small scratches, dents and scores allowing that burnished charm to shine through so that you fall in love with your floor all over again.

If all you want to do is to change the colour of an otherwise flaw-free floor then screening and recoating is ideal. Recoating can also be used to change a matt to a satin finish or vice versa.
 
The buffing machine used to remove the thinnest layer of finishing from your floor sanding can be hired from any tool or plant hire shop. If you have never used a machine like this before then ask the counter staff any questions you may have and do not try to use the machine until you feel confident in its operation. It is always a good idea to start screening in an area that is normally covered by furniture, or even the inside of a walk-in cupboard to allow yourself time to get used to the process and work with certainty.

If the recoating process is tried and does not yield the results you are looking for then do not despair; your floor can be refurbished after the event with no detrimental effect. When the refurbishment has been completed though it is a good idea to take note of the date, what was done and the materials used so that you will be in a more knowledgeable position the next time your floor requires some maintenance.

Screening and recoating is only suitable for solid wood flooring. Do not attempt this procedure on engineered or laminate floors.

Refurbishing Cork Tiles

One of the many reasons that eco-friendly cork tiles are popular is that they are super comfortable to walk on. With their naturally bouncy resilience these tiles can be walked on with bare feet making them a popular choice for bedrooms and den areas. Homeowners with arthritic or stiff joints also find cork flooring more forgiving and places less stress on ankle and knee joints. With proper maintenance cork tiling will last the average user around 20 years before refurbishment becomes necessary.

Cork flooring should be sanded to remove all residual veneer and any wood floor repairs should be dealt with at this time. Although cork is a heavy tile it can be damaged by a heavy sanding so a rule of thumb is to sand light but several times. Never dig into the tiles as cork cannot withstand this type of treatment and cracking will inevitably result.

Sand up to the edges with a hand held sander. This will require close work on hands and knees so if fitness is a problem you might consider getting a quote from a flooring specialist company to do the work for you.

The next stage

After sanding carefully vacuum the tiles. If you are applying a varnish finish adhere strictly to manufacturer’s guidelines and always have a channel of fresh air in the room while you are working.

Allow maximum drying time for the varnish and only when it is fully dry do you apply another coat. Cork tiles will require two coats, possible three but that should be sufficient. Do not over-varnish or a lumpy effect will be achieved.

Time to harden

After the final layer of varnish your cork tiles will look sparkling and like new. However avoid walking on the tiles for 24 hours minimum and a full week for it to fully harden before returning furniture to the room. Leave 2 weeks before washing the tiles.

Cork floor tiling can be protected with a polyurethane sealant. Apply exactly as directed and make sure each coat is allowed maximum drying time.

Remember that cork tiles can be swept as well as vacuumed. Whilst this type of flooring can be wet-washed, care must be taken when applying a mop. Mops should be lightly moistened only avoid excessive dripping and water spillages as this will seriously damage cork tiles. Remove stubborn marks carefully with the edge of a spatula.

How to colour cork tiles

Choosing a cork floor has many plus points. Cork is versatile, warm, tough, strong – and brown. If you would like to stamp your own personality on your cork tile flooring then why not try adding a bit of colour? Colouring cork flooring is very easy to do and adds immediate character to a room.

If there is a finishing veneer on the floor this will have to be removed before applying the colour. You can, depending upon the size of the room, strip the veneer off by hiring a sanding machine or you can use an orbital hand-held sander. There is also the option of using sandpaper alone but this will be labour intensive, not to mention painful on the knees and is not recommended unless the room is very small.

When the tiles are smooth and even, vacuum away the residue and you are ready to apply the colour. Cork colour comes in super shades: bold and bright primary colours to subtle blends and pastels.

Wearing protective gloves, open the can carefully and stir with a paint stick. When the stain is well mixed apply to the floor one tile at a time. Use a clean cloth rather than a brush and begin in an area which is usually covered by furniture.

When the floor sanding is completely stained leave overnight to dry. If a darker shade is required apply a second coat. When this is completely dry you can apply a urethane protective sealant to lengthen the life of your cork tiles.

Monday, July 15, 2013

How to Successfully Screen a Hardwood Floor

Hardwood floor screening is carried out when a floor has dulled naturally through time but the overall condition of the wood is still good and does not require a full sanding and refinishing. Hardwood screening is a process whereby only the very top layer of the veneer is removed, leaving the stain or varnish untouched.

Screening is a delicate procedure that should only be carried out by professionals or the DIY-er who has previous screening experience. Heavy-handed screening will result in the whole floor having to be sanded and refinished from scratch – a costly error!

Screen your wood floor sanding using a buffing machine with screening appendage which you will be able to hire. Don’t forget to purchase suitable screening discs, which are available in 60, 80,100 and 120-grades.

Begin by affixing the roughest grade of disc (like sandpaper, the screening disc rule is that the lower the grade the coarser the disc) to the buffer then walk the machine across the floor along the length of the planks. As you move the buffer will screen off the first tier of finishing, although you must be careful to avoid over-buffing in any one place or allowing the machine to remain stationary whilst it is running. When the floor has been completely screen then lightly vacuum the dust particles away.

Begin again using a finer grade of disc, vacuum and repeat a maximum of four times each time using a finer grade of disc.

When the floor has been screened for the final time it should be markedly smoother and richer in colour than before, and completely free of tired old finishing.

Now the floor should be thoroughly cleaned with damp dusters to get rid of any particles of dust which might remain. Tie your cloth onto the head of a soft brush to get right into the corners, nooks and crannies.

Oil or water?

To screen properly you really need to know whether the existing finishing is oil or water-based. Oil-based finishing is best cleaned by a cloth dampened with paint thinner and water-based finishing should be cleaned with a water dampened rag.

Polyurethane finish

Using a good quality lambs wool mitt apply the new finishing to the floor sanding, starting at the corner of the room furthest away from the door from which you will exit. Do not completely submerge the mitt into the finish but allow it to soak up only as much as it can hold before bringing the mitt towards you in a pulling motion. Always move along with the wood grain, never against it. Polyurethane finishing should always be introduced to the floor in smooth and even strokes. Avoid puddling and seepage. Do not be afraid to wipe away residual finishing as you go and keep a dry cloth by you as you work.

Allow a full 8 hours (or preferably overnight) for the finishing to completely dry before returning to the room.

A little sanding goes a long way
 
When the finish has dried the floor is ready to be sanded by hand using a very fine grain of sandpaper. Use a light hand here as all you are looking to do is to bring a slightly matt effect to the sheen which is necessary if the next layer of finishing is to adhere to it properly. After the sanding clean up with dampened cloths as before.

Repeat the whole process again exactly as above. When you apply the third and final polyurethane coating do not sand to allow the natural shine of your newly screened hardwood floor to come through.

For best results leave the room unoccupied for 48 hours before returning furniture to the room.

Monday, July 1, 2013

Repairing and Sanding Solid Wood Flooring

When your wood, parquet or mosaic flooring is in need of repair, regardless of the size of the problem it is better to attend to the matter as soon as you notice the damage. With hardwood flooring it really is a case of a stitch in time saves nine. Many homeowners have ignored damp patches, squeaks and creaks or splintered planking only to discover months or even a year down the line that the once small eyesore has now become a major problem that spoils the aesthetics of the entire room.

Damp patches in particular have a propensity to spread and, along with dry rot, should always be dealt with as soon as they are discovered. In addition to the stale, moldy smell that comes with wet rot, there will also be noticeable spores that spread out in weird and wonderful shapes, some of which have an attractive frilly edging. However make no mistake - these pests are anything but attractive and will ruin the whole floor if they are not checked.

Unless you are an experienced craftsman it is not recommended to undertake a course of dry or wet rot treatment yourself. If you suspect you have any kind of rot in your floor boards, contact a professional wood floor specialist company who will offer a no-cost evaluation and solution.

Rot is not the only problem to afflict a wood floor. In fact the most common flaws come in the shape of split or missing boards, wood which has discolored over the years or is badly stained. Fortunately in these cases, the remedy can be within your own hands if you are reasonably competent at DIY and are not afraid of a bit of hard work.

Look after your floor and your floor will look after you in terms of aesthetics, comfort and elegance.  A beautifully maintained wood floor is always a talking point for visitors and guests to the home as well as the envy of neighbors and friends. It is not uncommon for a real wood floor to last 100 years or more, making it the most cost-effective flooring option on the market.

Repair

Much of flooring repair comes in the shape of refitting planks and replacing where necessary, removing dangerously upright splinters, screws and nails, gap filling and securing loose boards.

Once these jobs have been completed the next stage is the sanding. In order to bring the floor back to its pristine original condition, the existing veneer (which may well be patchy, discolored and faded if your floor has not been refinished for a long time) should be re-sanded back to its basic condition.

Sanding

Sanding involves totally removing not only the veneer but also a minuscule top layer of the wood itself to leave smooth and blemish-free boards. Do not attempt to apply a resurfacing product on top of a floor which has not been sanded. This never looks good and often results in an expensive and time consuming effort to put right. Floor Sanding is integral to the finished product and should therefore never be omitted.

The best way to re-sand is to hire an industrial sander from a good DIY shop. Before you take the sander away make sure the machine has been regularly serviced and maintained and adheres to current Health and Safety regulations.  These sanders are large vacuum-sized machines which you can guide along the boards sanding as you go.

If you have never used a sander before treat it with a gentle hand until you become familiar with the machine. For best results allow the sander to glide across the floor and avoid digging into the wood. It is better to lightly sand two or three times rather than one heavy sanding that leaves ruts on the floor.

 Finishing

When sanding is complete then you can apply your finishing whether it be lacquer, wood stain, varnish or oil. If you like the ‘bare board’ look of the floor after sanding then you can simply buff and polish although if you choose this option remember that the floor has no protection and is unlikely to last as long.

Friday, June 21, 2013

Wood Floor Restoration Company in London

With a finely crafted real wood floor as the perfect foundation for any style of decor, it is no wonder wood flooring continues to be a firm favorite with UK homeowners.  As with any centerpiece though, the floor has to be in tip-top condition otherwise the aesthetic of the whole room will be affected.

Although there are various methods to keep a floor looking great there will come a time when a complete wood floor restoration will be required. Fortunately, this only happens every decade or so and a well-maintained wood floor with light traffic can easily last 15 years or more before refinishing is necessary.

How to DIY

Once you have decided that floor restoration is the way forward you can take the opportunity to change the colour of the wood or the type of finishing. There are many beautiful and easy-to-use finishing products out there to give you the widest possible choice.

However before you get anywhere near that stage first comes the labour intensive part! The whole floor will have to be sanded back to remove all traces of the previous veneer. If the floor has lain untouched for some time it is likely that you will find missing or loose boards and uneven gaps between the planks. These problems should be remedied at this stage before you even think about sanding.

If the floor is old and you are struggling to find a replacement match you could try contacting a local wood floor company who can source the closest match for you.

A basic toolkit is usually enough to get the job done, but if you are doing the sanding yourself you will probably need to rent a large drum sander which is walked along the boards sanding as it goes. If you have never used such a beast before then take advice from the hire outlet before taking the machine away. The main pitfall that you should be aware of is to never leave the machine running on idle as it will gouge the boards.

Depending upon the state of the floor you will need to do two or maybe three sanding in order to get the floor to the smooth, even and blemish-free result you need before you can progress on to the refinishing stage. This being the case; make sure and give yourself plenty of time (a week or more) during which the room can safely be out of commission. Many a sanding has been botched by working too quickly or by over-sanding and ruining the boards, so learn enough about the process before you start work, and take your time. More haste, less speed!

Refinishing

When the room has received its final sanding and you have cleared away all residual dust and dirt then you are ready to re-stain or otherwise refinishing the floor. You can choose from varnish, lacquer or oil-based finishing products in a matt or high gloss finish. If you opt for wood stain you can choose a natural color or a clear stain to enhance the natural whorls of the wood, or you can completely change the color and have your pine floor as rich as dark oak if you want to.

If you have sound enough DIY skills and are physically fit there is no reason why you cannot tackle wood floor restoration yourself. If however you are unable to spend long amounts of time on your knees or have limited carpentry skills then you can choose a completely free home floor assessment and quotation from your local wood flooring experts. Either way, give yourself the best chance of success before tacking the floor, as a botched job can be expensive to put right.

Thursday, June 13, 2013

Wax Your Hard Woods Beautifully

One of the cheapest and most effective ways to protect hardwood flooring is by waxing. Water-based wax is non-toxic, has little or no odour and is not harmful to children or pets. You can wax an average size room by yourself even if you have never done so before.

The idea is of course to have the floor look as shiny as possible without actually being shiny enough to be slippery. In this regard then be sure to follow product guidelines to the letter and take additional precautions too such as using non-slip runners on rugs and mats.

Different types of wax

If the floor is bare (that is it has no veneer) then solid wax can be applied straight from the tub and worked energetically into the grain of the wood by hand. Time consuming as it is, this method works really well and is so worth doing if you want your hardwood floor sanding to stay beautiful. Solid wax comes in paste form and can also be used on real linoleum, cork (if unfinished) and, surprisingly enough, concrete.

The best way to apply this solid wax is via a piece of porous cloth (cheesecloth is ideal). You simply place a chunk of wax inside the cloth and wrap it up. Secure the bundle tightly and apply to the floor. You can work on your knees applying the wax through the cloth (never directly on to) the floor, but you can also tie the bundle securely onto a brush shaft to give your knees a rest.

You should avoid using solid wax on any hardwood floor that has a topcoat applied and never use it on artificial flooring such as vinyl or flooring that has been finished with a urethane-based product.

If you feel solid waxing is not for you then you can use liquid wax or oil. Like the solid wax, liquid wax too should only be applied to unfinished hardwoods, real lino and unfinished cork flooring. The liquid is easier to apply but unfortunately the sheen will not last as long as with solid wax.

The other alternative is to use a water-based silicone product. This type of finishing can be used pretty much anywhere except on wood which has not been sealed, cork or linoleum products. This product can be applied using a floor polisher. Avoid allowing the liquid to seep into the floor boards and through the cracks. To avoid this happening apply only sparingly and give the floor several coatings. Ensure each coat is completely dry before applying the next. Applying this product on a floor that is not dry will result in a messy, streaky effort, which you will then have to re-do. Patience is key here. Water-based silicone is in fact the only product which can be safely applied to floors with a urethane finishing.

Whichever product you use, take care to wear appropriate protective overalls and always wear gloves. If you should spill any product on the skin wash off immediately. Work carefully and slowly to avoid splashing furniture, skirting and walls. This product will stain paint and wallpaper.

To wax or not to wax

With so many new and wood floor renovation finishing products out there it is not surprisingly that old-fashioned wax has lost some of its appeal yet it is the most economical method of refreshing any type of hardwood floor.


If you are willing to put in the time and elbow grease then your floor will reward you by looking beautiful, sparking and bright. However if you are unable to commit to working for long spells on your knees then you may consider getting a little specialist help. You will be able to obtain a no fee quotation from your local floor sanding company who will assess your floor and tell you whether waxing is right for you.

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Lime-Washing Real Wood Flooring

Lime-washing is an old-fashioned wood floor treatment that has withstood the test of time and is still popular with homeowners today when they want to give their floor a facelift. However, because the lime-washing technique is a temporary solution it should not be used in place of restoration if the floor has been untreated for more than a decade. In such cases a complete rejuvenation should be undertaken, which includes the repair/replace damaged boards, full sanding and refinishing. In addition not every type of real Wood Floor Sanding is suitable for this type of treatment so if you are in doubt play safe and get an expert opinion before carrying out any lime-washing.

The lime-wash solution works by coating and protecting the floor, but years of cleaning gradually removes the chalk-like lime and natural wax on the floor making the boards extra slippery and in some cases quite hazardous.

An alternative is to use what is known as a pickling stain, which contains no lime and offers the blanched, almost see-through veneer that is very popular with on-trend homeowners. Whether you choose to use lime or pickling stain you should begin with a freshly sanded floor, as old varnish and other sealants will stop the colour from being absorbed into the wood resulting in a patchy and amateurish finish.

The process

You can mix the lime-wash yourself or have it mixed for you by an in-store painting mix machine. Do not apply to an unprepared floor and always vacuum thoroughly after sanding. Apply a little at a time using a high-quality brush (so the bristles won’t drop out) or a lint-free cloth. Dip the end of the brush or cloth into the mix and apply directly on to the planks. Always move along with the grain never against and do not ever apply across the planking.

DIY’ers often prefer to lime-wash planks by row. To avoid creating a line between strokes try to refine the method of lifting the brush just a little as you come to the end of the stroke so that it blends in with the next application.

Always wipe the wash with a separate cloth before it dries in, as before moving only in the direction of the natural wood grain. In this way you can cover the entire floor applying lime-wash and removing it until the whole floor has been treated. Depending upon the size of the floor and whether you are working alone or have some help, this may be a painstaking process but not one that should be rushed as any flaws not attended to at this time will be greatly magnified when the end result is viewed. Don’t be tempted to cut corners. If you feel this may be too much for you to tackle then you can obtain a free quotation from a Floor Sanding specialist company.

Moving forward

When you have completed the floor it will require several hours to dry completely. If possible try to give it at least four hours or better still let it dry overnight. A good rule of thumb is that any water-based solution will need a minimum of three hours to dry whereas an oil-based mix should be left overnight. Do not carry on if the mix is completely dry.

To seal the floor you should use a urethane sealant, which you can get from a DIY shop. Follow the manufacturer guidelines and apply straight from the tin using a clean brush, paint pad or floor mop. Once again use long strokes moving along the grain; short strokes will result in air bubbles marring the finish. Drying time is as above.


You can apply several coats of sealant if you wish but always allow the previous coat to completely dry out first.

A little TLC to finish

Keep your lime-wash floor looking gorgeous for a long time to come with regular vacuuming and an occasional clean with a lightly moistened mop.

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Enhance Your Home with a Restored Wood Floor

When you take the decision to restore your hardwood floor it is natural that you want the floor to look the very best it can. Whether you choose to do it yourself or to use a specialist flooring team, there are a few essential points to remember so that you get the maximum benefit from your Wood Floor Refurbishing to enhance the look of your home for longer.

When the floor is finished many people make the mistake of returning the furniture almost as soon as the floor finishing appears dry and begin using the room immediately. This is a great mistake. The floor may be hard on top but the underneath veneer will almost certainly retain some liquidity. It needs to fully cure, and until the finishing is allowed to dry and harden completely your floor is not totally protected.

In order to give your floor the best chance for a long and happy life avoid walking on it (even with bare feet) for at least 24 hours, although 48 hours is better if you can manage it.  Leave it as long as possible before returning heavy furniture to the room and allowing children and pets to play in the room.

Apart from the vacuuming you will have carried out prior to the sanding process if you did it yourself, don’t vacuum too much during the first few weeks of your floor’s new life. Avoid sticking anything to the floor such as sticky tape or edging runners.

The importance of regular light maintenance

It is important to lightly sweep and vacuum the floor on a regular basis, although it is not necessary to wash it every time you do so. Floors become damaged when particles of grit become ground into the wood so regular light sweeping goes a long way to preserve your floor’s pristine beauty as well as keeping it fresh and clean looking. Rather than mop the floor it is sometimes enough to attach a lightly moistened cloth to a brush head and collect the dust that way.

If you do decide to use a cleaning product on the floor then only use one which has been specifically designed for wood floors. Never be tempted to use tile or laminate cleaner, which can cause a too-shiny veneer on the wood that quickly dulls and loses lustre on hardwoods.

Moisture warps wood so if the climate calls for it you might find it a good idea to install a de-humidifier, which is better for both you and your floor.

Hardwood floor repairs

It is often the case that when a floor is sanded back loose or missing boards are discovered. If this has happened to you and you would like your replacement wood to be ethically sourced then be sure to select only wood which has the FSC stamp of approval. This means the wood has been harvested from responsible sources, which in turns means the sustainability of wildlife and fair employment.

If your floor is particularly old or is of an uncommon wood type then you may need to contact a professional wood Floor Sanding Company to help you source the best possible match. However, remember that even if the wood is the same type as your floor it is unlikely that it will be exactly the same shade and may require a little wood stain to make it blend in initially.


Real wood floors in wet rooms

It’s never really a good idea to use wood flooring in a high humidity environment. But should your find yourself in this position then it is better to choose engineered wood, which is real wood veneer with a laminated base. This type of wood has a shorter lifespan that real wood but does rather better in kitchens, bathrooms and utility rooms where there is a higher level of moisture in the air.